August 28, 2009

  • ~ Introduction ~

    I have over 30 years of experience in creating custom garments, specializing in wedding gowns for the better part of my career.  In fact, it was my own Wild West Wedding that generated a fascination with “costume,” an olde term used to describe the garments in the wardrobes of  both men and women.  Since then I have studied with rapt attention the periods between the 1860′s (at the eve of the Civil War) and 1940′s and have developed a long list of my favorite designers: Charles Worth and his son, Jean-Philippe, Doucet,  the Callot Soeurs (“Sisters”), Patou, Poiret, Lelong, Chanel, and Molyneux.  Not to mention, Erte, whose creative genius fuels my muse.

     

    The challenge I love most is to create a gown from a fashion plate or picture — to reproduce it as nearly exactly as possible.  You might call it an obsession.  Right down to the style of stiching.  Even more, I have taken courses from film screen costumers on how to age a costume so that it looks and feels like an authentic antique when you wear it, rather than a crisp store-bought duplicate.

    Recently, I have been reproducing movie costumes and, naturally, have started yet another list of favorite designers:  Adrian, Bernard Newman (whose design for the 1935 film Roberta is worn by Irene Dunn below), Edith Head, and, now, Colleen Atwood.

     

    I am a member of historical costuming guilds including the Costume Society of America, International Costumer’s Guild, and Costumer’s Guild West. I have produced gowns for events sponsored by the Art Deco Society of Los Angeles and the Lively Arts History Association. I receive regular commissions from Civil War reenactors, jitterbug and swing dancers, and from the loveliest princesses for their quinceaneras.

    Please view some past creations from the gallery at left.

     

    ~ Vintage Materials ~

    I use FINE authentic fabrics and original patterns, of which I am an avid collector.   I purchase long lengths of antique lace or garment fragments, as well as vintage ribbon, antique beads and buttons, and even snaps, wherever I can find them in order to restore or create a costume from scratch. I try to make antique items removable for overall garment cleaning.  Whenever original materials are not available, I fill in the missing pieces and build the garment with the closest modern approximations  — 100% silk, linen, cotton, and wool.  Sure, I can sew up something in acetate to save a customer some money, and I sometimes do (especially if it furthers someone’s interests in Costuming!), but there is nothing like the real thing!

     

    ~ Vermilion Vintage Philosophy ~

    There is an alluring enchantment associated with going back to another period in time. Masquerade balls, costume parties, time machine fantasies have been popular throughout history. Historical reenactment is not limited to Civil War buffs. Renassaince faires, celtic celebrations, and ethnic festivals all underscore the important role of clothing in culture.   Maybe a particular era whispers to us with familiar ease, as though we had lived there ourselves once.   Ah… . to be standing against a cool gargolyed pillar on a building carved in 1920′s architecture while dressed in a silk velvet opera cape beneath which an ostrich plume is held by a ivory glove.

    It is not a simple matter of donning replica ensembles. There is no magic like holding the real thing in your hands — an authentic chantilly lace collar, a crisp taffeta ruffle, and hand-embroidered batiste from the turn of the century – the way it drapes from your palm, its antique scent.  Like an old book,  pieces like these are historical vessels.  They are charms that transport you every time you close your eyes.

    My best wishes to you for a exhilirating adventure while closing your eyes in my designs.   

     

August 18, 2009

  •   1920′s

    Post WWII to the The Jazz Age, 

    The Roaring 20′s,  Prohibition,  Flapper era 

     

    Click on a photograph for details and more images.   

    – Under Construction –

    1925 a1 1926 a3  1920 Traveling Costume (click for details)

     1924 Ostrich Gown 1929 Flapper Dress

January 29, 2007

  • Pattern Index

    Original and Complete

      M8988 focus M8033 focus

     

    1900 – 1910                            1930′s

      

     M4873 focusB0000

     

    1911 – 1919                             1940′s

     

     

    P5039 focus

    S3580 focus

     

    1920′s                                     1950′s

  •  1950 – to present

     Click on pattern thumbnail for details and price. 

     

    B6747   Advance6649

    1953 Butterick # 6747          1954 Advance # 6649 

     

  •   1924 Ostrich Evening Gown
    ~ Silver Sheen with Natural Gray and White Ostrich Feathers ~
     
     
    Description ~

    This is the “SHOW-STOPPER” right here. There is just nothing like this extraordinary Ostrich Evening Gown. 

    1924 Ostrich Gown fashion plate  1924 Ostrich Gown

    This design was reproduced from a French fashion magazine dated December 1924.  The caption described a “Mdm L___” who gladly posed at the opera so that Mssr. Soulie could sketch her likeness for the society pages.

    1924 Ostrich Gown side 1924 Ostrich Gown back

    The hemline dips lower in the back, and the feathers follow this line.  (Yes, you CAN sit down in this dress!)  A twisted rope of fabric is hand-sewn to a hidden ribbon to fashion the straps.  I have opted for only one convenient, but historically incorrect, design    feature by using an invisible zipper on the left side to close the gown.

    1924 Ostrich Gown strap 1924 Ostrich Gown feathers

    Feathers: 

    The gown features approximately 20 natural-colored male ostrich wing feathers, all over 20 inches long.  White feathers spreckled with gray were chosen for this gown to match the fabric.  The feathers are all attached to a flounce of black tulle which snaps to the bottom of the gown.  This design feature makes it easy to clean the dress.

    Fabric

    Cotton-backed silver , nearly a gun-metal colored, lame.  Although it is a modern fabric, it is a close approximate to the lame brocades that were popular in the Jazz Age. This is a rich, medium weight fabric that drapes well. 

    It shines readily in regular light (see the photo of the strap which was taken without a flash), but REALLY GLOWS with bright lights and for pictures!

    Lining:

    The gown is fully lined with black, 100% silk.

     

    ~ Measurements ~
    Suitable for a size 8 to 12

    Bust:  38 inches 

    Waist: 31 inches

     Hips: 41 inches

    Dress Length:   42 inches in front and 52 inches in back
     

    Care ~   Remove the feathered tulle and dry clean. 
     

January 18, 2007

  • 1940 – 1949

     Click on pattern thumbnail for details and price. 

     

             S3588        

            1940 Simplicity # 3588           

         

     V4363       S4363         S4466

     1942 Vogue # 4363          1942 Simplicity # 4363         1943 Simplicity # 4466 

     

    B3861     B4352     V6132     M7446     

    1946 Butterick # 3861      1947 Butterick # 4352    1947 Vogue # 6132      1948 McCall # 7446           

     

    Mccall 7658

     1949 McCall # 7658    

    (Sold!  Details here.  Email me to order a COPY.)   

     

  • 1930 – 1939

     Click on pattern thumbnail for details and price. 

     

     AnneAdams1795    DuBarry1197   M6718

    1930 Anne Adams # 1795      1930 DuBarry # 1197          1931 McCall  # 6718      

              (Sold! Details here.)                                                 (Sold!  Email me to order COPY.)      

     

     B3609       B3885       M6622

     1931 Butterick # 3609        1931 Butterick # 3885       1931 McCall # 6622 

                                                                                                           (Sold! Details here.  Email me to order COPY.)     

     

    B4631     S1336     M7217

    1932 Butterick # 4631       1933 Simplicity  # 1336        1933 McCall  # 7217     

     

       S1526         P7036        H979

        1934 Simplicity  # 1526    1934 Pictorial Review  # 7036     1935 Hollywood # 979  

     

    M8263      B6947     B6927

      1935 McCall  # 8236           1936 Butterick # 6947             1936 Butterick # 6927 

     

    Advance1805     S1942        S1957        H1195

          1936 Advance # 1805     1936 Simplicity  # 1942      1936 Simplicity  # 1957       1939 Hollywood # 1738 

     

    S2689        H1738

    1938 Simplicity  # 2689          1939 Hollywood # 1738 

     

    V254         V279

       1939  Vogue Couturier  # 254          1939  Vogue Couturier  # 279  

     

     

     

  •   1920 – 1929

    SOON, will be able to click on pattern thumbnail for details and Ebay link. 

     

       B2336 pattern B2336       B2408 pattern B2408

    1920 Butterick #2336                                                  1920 Butterick #2408 

     

    B2086 patternB2086 B2041 pattern B2051 patternB2051 Skirt

       1920 Butterick #2086                                         1920 Butterick #2041 waist, and #2051 skirt

    (Sold!  Details here.  Email me to order a COPY.)           (Sold both!  Can order COPY here.)                   

     

    B2713 pattern  B3017 pattern

     1921 Butterick #2713            1921 Butterick #3017

     

    B3082 pattern   B3291 pattern   B3732 pattern   B3460 pattern

      1921 Butterick #3082             1921 Butterick #3291              1922 Butterick #3732          1922 Butterick #3460  

     

    Pict2005 pattern  Pict1918 pattern  M_WI_1 pattern   

     1923 Pictorial #2005         1923 Pictorial #1918            c. 1923 McCall #1918          

      

    M3058 pattern     M3058 blurrede

    1923 McCall #3058   

     

    B4508 pattern  B4717 pattern  B5967 pattern  B5784 pattern

    1923 Butterick #4508            1923 Butterick #4717           1925 Butterick #5967           1925 Butterick #5784

     

    M3969 pattern  B6217 pattern  B6006 pattern B6440 pattern

       1925 McCall #3969          1925 Butterick #6217     1925 Butterick #6006     1926 Butterick #6800        

     

    B6800 pattern M5014 pattern  MO_WI2692 pattern EX2881 pattern

      1926 Butterick #6800        1927 McCall #5014          c. 1927 Unknown #2692            1928 Excella #2881 

     

     Pict5180 pattern  Pict5039 pattern  Pict4977 pattern  Pict4922 pattern

        1929 Pictorial #5180         1929 Pictorial #5039        1929 Pictorial #4977       1929 Pictorial #4922

     

    M5769 pattern  MO5095 pattern  FD7060 pattern   B2448 pattern

    1929 McCall  #5769      c. 1929 Unknown #5095    c. 1929 Fashion Dsgn #7060    1929 Butterick #2448

     

    B2646

    1929 Butterick  #2646  

    (Sold!  Details here.  Email me to order a COPY.)

     

  • 1910 – 1919

     SOON, will be able to click on pattern thumbnail for details and Ebay link.

     

    M4200 pattern 

    1911  McCall #4200

     

    M4873 pattern  M4813 pattern  M4625 pattern

    1912  McCall #4873         1912  McCall #4813          1912  McCall #4625 

     

    M5465 pattern  M5342 pattern  M5833 pattern

       1913  McCall #5465            1913  McCall #5342             1914  McCall #5833

     

    M6468 pattern              M6435 pattern M6435 focus

    1915  McCall #6468                                                      1915  McCall #6435             

     

    B8547 pattern   Pict7312 pattern    Pict7240 pattern    M7573 pattern

     1916 Butterick #8547        1917 Pictorial #7312                1917 Pictorial #7240                 1917  McCall #7573

  • 1900 – 1909

    SOON, will be able to click on pattern thumbnail for details and Ebay link.

     

    Antiques are classified as artifacts more than 100 years old.  Newer items are technically labeled “Vintage.” 

    As you can see, there are some true ANTIQUES here! 

     

    B6470 pattern

      Year unknown

    approx 1902 Butterick #6470 

    (No envelope in those days.  Tied with string instead.)

     

      M8026 pattern    M7789 pattern    M8758 pattern     M8393 pattern

             1903 McCall #8026           1903 McCall #7789           1904 McCall #8758        1904 McCall #8393       

         

      M9124 pattern   M8988 pattern   Stan1495 pattern  M9465 pattern

    1905 McCall #9124        1905 McCall #8988             1906 Standard #1495         1906 McCall #9465 

     

    M2538 pattern  M2507 pattern

     1909 McCall  #2538      1909 McCall  #2507